by c monster

Some people use old surfboards as decorations and others collect them as a special hobby.

If you are into some surfboards history check the post on pushingtide about the Aussie collector.

If you want the whole deal check his blog.

For me seeing some of the surfboards was fun but I’m more about the present.

courtesy of monkeyc.net

I’ve just read a very thought provoking post on the Surf Nation about surfing becoming an addiction or an obsession for many of us and the extend that some surfers would go for a good surf.

Is surfing is all about freedom as so many surfer believe and claim and if so how can it be so unbalanced?

Giving the question of the reasons for getting addicted to surfing to the extent that it interferes with other things we want to do in our lives I’ve reached an interesting conclusion.

A good surf enables me to feel a very special feeling, the kind of feeling that would keep in high on the clouds for sometime. Whenever I return to the normal everyday obligations I start loosing this feeling and when things start to get difficult I just have to surf again.

I truly feel that the sense is freedom is actually the ability not to care or to be too involved in many everyday stuff. In a sense as long as I have this feeling I’m not really there and shit doesn’t touch me. Whatever happens I can go out for a good surf and be somewhere else.

Maybe this is part of the famous ‘freedom’  that so many surfers talk about.

courtesy of surfercosmovision

I mean fashion in surfing if it wasn’t clear.

I just read the discussion on sissyfish about what is retro and what is not retro in surfboards and from the serious discussion there about the merits of retro surfboards I’ve almost missed the original post to which he referred.

Sure when a friend come along for surfing and brings gear that is really “strange” I would groaned too especially if he hasn’t moved the basic stages of surfing in years.

But people can do great things with various surfboards, the practice and the needs lead to an improved gear but there are various styles out there and I’ve seen some good surfers that use retro surfboards so I wouldn’t blame the board.

If you need something to laugh about I recommend on Occasional visit to Your Daily Donkey.

He’s constantly bringing photos of Californian surfer doing their best to show their surfing skill but being caught on camera for looking silly.

No bad intention, at least on my part, but still it does put things in perspective.